MILAN, ITALY [JANUARY 17, 2015] – Costume National was once known for the consistency of its approach, but today’s show seemed to inhabit an obscure aesthetic hinterland where Prada touches Cavalli, and neither feels particularly happy about it. True, one bottle green fur-lapelled coat was sumptuous and touched with a jolt of libertine swagger. But the Duran Duran high-hemmed beige suit with a south-of-the-navel cluster of double-breasted buttons that came three looks before it had already rocked the audience into a state of silhouette anxiety that developed into a recurrent affliction. Knit T-shirts can just about work, but with a turtleneck worn under a polo neck we’re in a symphony of wrong. The rainbow-refracting, crystal-dotted trucker jacket was something you’d expect to see at a brasher label, not one that has been described as Italy’s Helmut Lang. Costume National designer Ennio Capasa just didn’t seem to have his usual tight control of his rock ‘n’ roll influences today.

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