KTZ F/W 2015 MENSWEAR

LONDON, UNITED KINGDOM – Few brands may take into count themselves as really “cult” however KTZ is actually one. Marjan Pejoski’s garments are measure grounded in ideology and distinction. The backstory nearly always details a private journey of spirituality. Previous collections are attributed to the designer’spilgrim’s journey to visualize the Inuit tribe in search for ancient knowledge. For the alternative youth searching for one thing to believe, KTZ makes a compelling narrative that ultimately becomes its priceless currency.

Today’s show wasn’t in need of subversion. It opened with a military styled group of models straight out of Nick Knight’s 1982 Skinhead: mid-calf boots, military textile and stitched-on insignias. A more in-depth look revealed mosaic portraits of political leaders Mao Zedong and Karl Marx. It became clear that these youths were dressed for a revolution. Bowler hats and all white ensembles referenced Stanley Kubrick’s A Clockwork Orange, one of the key works that inspired David Bowie and arguably ordered the inspiration for British subcultures.

But Pejoski’s collection wasn’t a straightforward linear decision to arm for rebel youths. Looks eight and nine resembled a lot the taboo patterned pyjamas from the Holocaust that are remade and branded “Innocent” on the back. They quickly segued into abstracted mosaic tiles from the portraits earlier, maybe an illusion to the pixels of automatic face recognition technologies, one more heavily political zeitgeist.

It was one statement after another, however it presently became evident that the show moved from the more familiar to additional hard-edged and reclusive. The previous couple of appearance were nearly solely black, complete with leather neck braces and balaclavas. Leather was paired with additional leather while KTZ’s signature white-on-black hieroglyphic motifs created a significant look. It eventually went into the esoteric KTZ territory that maybe could only be decrypted if you have been initiated. The collection revealed only enough for the outsiders to walk away with one thing to remember them by: with Marjan Pejoski at the helm, KTZ is simply the cult that keeps growing.