This Spring, Burberry traveled to Perry Green, Hertfordshire – home of artist Henry Moore, who is most famous for his abstract sculptures inspired by the British body. Burberry’s Spring 2017…
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DIY meets Eighties femininity in Nicky Zimmermann’s romantic spring 2017.Gone are the days of DIY for Nicky Zimmermann — as her brand has become a cult favorite with vintage- and beach-loving girls worldwide — and yet that didn’t stop her from taking her spring collection on a reminiscent journey back to Stranded, her and her friends’ club of choice in Sydney, Australia in the Eighties. “It’s kind of my take on the Eighties, because where I grew up was kind of isolated to the subcultures that were happening — it was a bit more parody,” she explained. In her show notes, she offered details: “We made everything ourselves; it was more about expressing yourself. We ripped up tutus, we stole dad’s shirts, found old pieces of lace. We tied, we tattered, tangled and frayed.”
What’s regularly remarkable about Zimmermann is the brand’s ability to produce high-quality, intricate workmanship while retailing at a sub-designer price point. One piece, a white lace and purply floral menagerie of wraps and tiers (essentially a souped-up prairie dress), was especially striking in terms of its construction. It also featured an off-the-shoulder element, which is proving to be quite trendy in the early stages of NYFW.
It’s been a busy week chez Tom Ford.
Ford was one of a handful of designers—Burberry’s Christopher Bailey and Tommy Hilfiger among them—to pioneer the see-now-buy-now model when he hosted a starry dinner, runway show, and Leon Bridges performance at the Four Seasons last September. It was the most glamorous New York Fashion Week moment since Beyoncé, Julianne Moore, and Lauren Hutton, et al. walked his debut womenswear catwalk back in 2010. But Ford’s see-now-buy-now experiment is to be short-lived.
He’ll be on the official New York Fashion Week calendar come September, showing not an in-season collection, but a Spring 2018 collection. “It was good to try see-now-buy-now, and I’m glad I did, and eventually that’s how the industry will work,” Ford said. “But right now, the shows and store delivery dates aren’t aligned. We missed crucial weeks of selling time and valuable long-lead press.” He’s also moving his women’s atelier to Los Angeles from London.
Ford wasn’t saying if we can expect a Four Seasons–type experience, but knowing him, the odds are it won’t be your basic run-of-the-mill runway show. “Especially in this moment of designer musical chairs,” he said, “the best thing to be is true to your brand. And I have a brand, I have a following.” For Fall, he’s giving his followers very fitted tailoring (“my customer responds to that. When it’s boxy, it’s not as strong”) colorful, drape-y cocktail numbers with zesty stockings to match, equally bright shearling and fox furs, and high-shine black patent outerwear.